Mark Twain uses cane to point out his classic novel The Adventures of Tom Sawyer. Many 19th century authors and fictional characters were seen walking around during TwainFest.
TwainFest last summer was awesome. So today I had to go again!
A uniquely wonderful cultural event, TwainFest celebrates Mark Twain and other famous 19th century authors. Held every year in Old Town San Diego State Historic Park, the event includes games and activities for the entire family, including Costume and Liar’s contests (the latter as a tribute to Twain’s tall tales), vintage dancing, and all sorts of historical performances and reenactments. TwainFest is presented by Fiesta de Reyes and created by the literature-loving folks at Write Out Loud.
I walked about randomly for about an hour just aiming my camera at familiar old classics that I love come to life. I saw lots of San Diegans in period costume, many portraying well known characters from literature.
I hope you enjoy these photos…
A random writer helps to pen one of three endless stories at the family friendly event. …And, lo, from out of the mist stepped a phantom: it was the ghost of Mark Twain!Mr. Samuel Clemens, American author of many timeless books and stories, relaxes under a tree in Old Town San Diego State Historic Park during 2015 TwainFest.Mark Twain’s beloved character Aunt Polly is looking around for Tom Sawyer and Huck, who are probably running about engaged in mischief once again.Some lively Irish music dating from the Old West is played during TwainFest on the Fiesta de Reyes stage. Laughter. Levity. Literature.A storyteller making the rounds at TwainFest challenges the audience between musical performances to solve humorous riddles.This elegantly-dressed gentleman informed me he would be reading classic fiction to the crowd later today.Not to miss this history and literature-inspired event, a couple of fun-loving pirates come shuffling along through Old Town’s central plaza.Oh, goodness! It’s one of the most famous fictional, rascally pirates of all! Long John Silver! What’s that in the bottle?Al Sorkin, aka Captain Swordfish, represents the Maritime Museum of San Diego. That’s a really big harpoon! Perhaps it was once used to hunt Moby Dick.Two friendly people in period costume were greeting visitors at the entrance to the Casa de Estudillo.This funny guy said he was a sort-of Mad Hatter with a Bowie knife! He looked more like a 19th century Willy Wonka to me!Uh oh. While no one was looking Henry David Thoreau got out of his jail cell! That was awfully disobedient!These two snake oil salespeople were selling Ether of Muse. One whiff of the potent elixir and writing literature is a snap.This mild, ordinary lady in a bonnet demonstrated what happens when one sniffs essence of Emily Dickinson. She recited breathless poetry for minutes on end.Girl greets large puppet Mark Twain and Emily Dickinson at 2015 TwainFest in Old Town San Diego State Historic Park!
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A merchant ship’s purser greets a wheelwright in Old Town San Diego State Historic Park during Stagecoach Days: Trades That Shaped the West.
This afternoon I took a short easy stroll through Old Town San Diego State Historic Park. My trusty little camera captured some interesting photos of history come to life!
During summer Saturdays, Old Town hosts a cool event called Stagecoach Days. Each weekend there’s a different theme. Today it was Trades That Shaped the West.
As you might imagine, I witnessed historical reenactments of working life in San Diego when the town was a small outpost of civilization surrounded by mostly undeveloped wilderness. In those days life was often difficult, but the people were from hardy stock. Let’s see a small sample of what 19th century San Diego might have been like…
Stagecoach Days, Celebrating the West on the Move, is open free to the public. The weekly event is held on summer Saturdays in Old Town’s historic central plaza.Preparing an old Stanhope Park Phaeton, parked with other buggies and carriages in front of the Robinson-Rose House Visitor Information Center.A ladies basket trap carriage, circa 1900. This simple horse-drawn vehicle was often used for comfortable country travel, complete with wicker basket seat.The wheelwright had many tools on display and explained how wheels in the 19th century were skillfully created of wood and iron.A welded ring of bent iron would be expanded with heat, then placed around the wheel’s ash wood circumference.A cool woodworker demonstrates and provides the names of his many tools to the delight of watching kids.A sneak peek into the blacksmith shop behind Seeley Stable Museum before the event officially begins outside in the plaza.A blacksmith bangs away on some hot metal as he fashions a thin, pointed nail.This sliver of red hot iron with some hammering will be turned into a nail with a flat head, ready to be used for 19th century construction.These folks in historical costume are busily preparing some biscuits, a common food in the early days of San Diego.A smiling someone is tending the campfire. What’s cooking?Looks like a bubbling stew!Printing press demonstration underway at the San Diego Union Museum print shop in Old Town.Wells Fargo employee, from the agent’s office museum in the Colorado House, helps people into a stagecoach for a photograph.Of course, a good historical reenactment of the Old West requires lively music and enthusiastic dancing.Two ladies prepare to dance the polka.
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Important stories from local history are preserved at the Women’s Museum of California.
The Women’s Museum of California is one of many cultural attractions that can be enjoyed at Liberty Station in Point Loma. I took some photos of a historical exhibit just outside their front door.
This unique museum was founded by Mary Maschal, a collector of memorabilia and artifacts pertaining to women. The collection has moved to different locations and evolved over the years; today it has grown into an important museum that features art shows, live performances, lectures and other educational events. Its mission is summarized by the slogan: Preserving the past…inspiring the future.
The women of Old Town, 1821-1872. Women and their families have lived in this area, called Cosoy by indigenous people, for over 10,000 years. This exhibit focuses on a short period.The historical experiences and accomplishments of local women are preserved at this unique San Diego museum.The Ipai and Tipai (Diegueño, Kumeyaay) resisted Christianity and the missions more than other indigenous Californians. Moved off their land, the women worked in the town and ranchos.The few women in Old Town had more opportunities to earn money than in the Eastern U.S. They did traditional work: laundry, baking, cooking, sewing, tending to children and livestock.Settlers contributed to San Diego’s complex society after 1830. Women arrived alone and with family after a difficult trip by stagecoach and ship.Californios were a diverse group whose culture created el pueblo San Diego. They were descendants of mixed Spanish and indigenous peoples, often given land grants by Mexico.Old photographs in an artifact help modern San Diegans remember their rugged, fascinating past.
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Ladies in Mexican folk costume gather in front of Old Town’s Robinson-Rose House.
I didn’t catch the names of the dance groups competing today. But I did get some fun photos! The sixth annual Fiesta de Reyes Folklórico Competition in Old Town San Diego State Historic Park was full of energy and color. In past years, the State Park has also been crowded with vendors during the Cinco de Mayo weekend. But not this year. All the commercial vendors were outside the park, along San Diego Avenue, and I believe this was a great idea. The center of historic Old Town is a representation of what life was like in San Diego in the 1800s. Its emphasis today on the authentic baile folklórico competition, which attracted talented troupes from throughout California, and a whole lot of spectators, seemed just right!
How good was the dancing? The participants were motivated to go full tilt with a first place prize of one thousand dollars! The dancers were evaluated by several renowned Mexican judges. It was fantastic!
Performers in the Cinco de Mayo weekend Folklorico Competition walk toward the Fiesta de Reyes stage area.A dance troupe wearing colorful costumes waits at the edge of Old Town’s grassy central plaza.Traditional Mexican folklorico dancers have checked in for the cool San Diego event!A huge crowd watches as the super energetic dance contest is already underway.With flowers in their hair, bright dresses and broad smiles, these dancers bring cheers and whoops from the crowd.Dances and costumes from different parts of Mexico can be quite unique.These stomping guys are full of vigor and so is the crowd!Long colored ribbons stream from very odd costumes. The headpieces appear to be religious icons or altars.Sacred images of Christ crown these dancers’ heads. I believe I heard this peculiar tradition originated in Jalisco, but I might be wrong.Frilly, flouncy dresses were seen throughout Old Town San Diego State Historic Park.Traditional Mexican folk dancers in long flowing skirts dazzle the cheering crowd.Another sensational performance!These were the first place winners!
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Yarns dyed many different colors out on display in San Diego’s Old Town.
One more quick post from today’s stroll through Old Town San Diego State Historic Park. After going on the free walking tour, which I do every few years to jiggle my memory, I observed that a couple of unique exhibits were out on public display. One concerned yarn, the other twine. A “string” of coincidence too good not to blog about!
During the tour, our knowledgeable guide explained how red dye in the olden days was derived from a particular insect–the cochineal. The cochineal is a beetle that can be found on prickly pears, a cactus which grows abundantly in arid San Diego. While we watched, the guide plucked one from a prickly pear next to the Casa de Estudillo, then crushed it. His fingers turned bright purple from the beetle juice! (He explained the British Red Coats dyed their uniforms with cochineal, but Purple Coats didn’t sound quite so fierce.)
Tour guide ready to produce some reddish dye.
After the tour ended, two volunteers inside the Casa de Estudillo were demonstrating how yarn used to be made. To dye the fibers, both cochineal and indigo dye were commonly used. A spinning wheel served to demonstrate the hard work required to live comfortably before our more modern conveniences.
La Casa de Estudillo, an elegant adobe house built in 1827 by a wealthy Californio family that owned several large ranchos in Southern California.Volunteers in costume with baskets of color. They told me some yarns concerning San Diego’s complex, fascinating history.State Park volunteers describe life in early San Diego, when spinning wheels were common household objects.
Out in one corner of Old Town’s big central plaza, some friendly Mormons were demonstrating the making of twine. Like the native prickly pear, yucca plants have always been plentiful in San Diego’s desert-like environment. The tough fibers in the leaves, once extracted, are dried and then twisted using a simple mechanism to create primitive but very practical twine or rope.
Making twine involved twisting fibers found in native yucca plants.Mormon guy smiles as he exhibits rope-making in Old Town. The Mormon Battalion was one of many diverse participants in San Diego’s early history.
Someday I’ll probably blog about the amazing, hour-long Old Town walking tour. I need some more photos and many more notes before I undertake that, however!
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Walking through Old Town San Diego State Historic Park we see a sign beside Seeley Stable Museum. Let’s go see the donkeys!Is this one of the donkeys? Nope. Visitors and kids from local schools can ride this docile wooden critter, because touching the live donkeys is not allowed.Look! We found some horned cattle corralled in a corner! Nope. Wrong again.California State Park Rangers ahead! I think something cool is up this way!It’s 30 year old donkey Don. This guy can be grumpy, I’m told. I saw some evidence of that!Over here we meet 28 year old Dulce, which in Spanish means sweet, or candy. She (I think it’s a she–I didn’t ask) is the friendlier donkey.But the rangers here seem the friendliest of all!
Visiting school kids, with the help of Don and Dulce, can learn what life was like (particularly for a donkey) in the very early days of San Diego.
Four things I learned during my brief visit:
Donkeys were a preferred draft and pack animal because of their spine, which pound for pound is much stronger than a horse. A donkey can pull half its weight.
Donkeys are closely related to the zebra.
Don and Dulce are rescue animals.
Old Town has fun surprises around every corner!
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Public art in San Diego honors those who serve in uniform, defending Peace, Liberty, Justice, America , Freedom.
Four large painted murals can be seen under Interstate 5 where the freeway passes over Rosecrans Street, just west of Old Town. The title of my blog post is a bit deceptive, because I only managed to get decent pics of three murals. The fourth, which depicts the Coronado Bay Bridge, was half in sunlight, half in darkness, and is the least interesting (in my opinion) of the four anyway.
Mural includes two colorful scenes from historic Old Town, just a short walk away.Four works of art glimpsed by motorists as they drive under the busy overpass.Pedestrians file past artwork that shows nearby San Diego River and wildlife.
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El Campo Santo cemetery in Old Town San Diego contains much history.
El Campo Santo, a cemetery located in Old Town, contains many of San Diego’s earliest residents. By walking respectfully among the gravestones, one can learn much about the city’s interesting history and what life was like for its diverse people. Real-life characters buried here include ranchers, gold miners, sailors, Californios, Native Americans, soldiers, politicians, merchants, actors, children and outlaws.
Established in 1849, the graveyard is the final resting place of nearly five hundred souls. Just a handful are shown in this blog post.
I took photographs of grave sites, headstones and many small signs in the “Holy Field” that describe what is known about the deceased. With a little editing, I’ve provided information here from many of those signs, and from a few other online sources.
Melchior was a Native American who lived to be 97 years old.
Melchior, born 1770, died 1867, age 97 years. Very little is known about the Indian Melchior. He was born a year after the arrival of Junipero Serra in San Diego. He was baptized by the missionaries and became a Roman Catholic Christian. During his long life, he saw San Diego grow from a small pueblo to a city.
Thomas W. Tanner ran an acting troupe that performed at the Whaley House.
Thomas W. Tanner was buried December 22, 1868, age 55 years. He ran an acting troupe that performed on the second floor of the Whaley House in December 1868. Tanner’s troupe offered moral, chaste and versatile entertainment consisting of drama, farce, comedy, singing and dancing. Unfortunately, Tanner died 17 days after his troupe opened. He was married to Policarpia de la Rosa and was a native of Baltimore, Maryland.
Anita Gillis was a young child.
Anita Gillis was a child when she died. Her funeral is remembered as follows on a plaque by the grave. A funeral procession wound across the Plaza and ended at the old church. The child lay in a tiny white coffin, which rested on a small white table. The cover was off, and the coffin and table were filled with flowers. Six little girls dressed in white with wreaths on their heads carried the table. The priest and two boys carrying crosses walked ahead, the mourners behind. Musicians played the violin and accordion, and boys firing off firecrackers brought up the rear of the procession. She was carried to the church, and the coffin placed under a small white catafalque, draped in Spanish lace and surrounded by candles. A simple, solemn mass was said. She was then carried to the old cemetery and buried with a simple white wooden cross bearing her name erected at the head of her grave.
Juan Mendoza worked on a ranch and was shot in the back.
Juan Mendoza died February 6, 1865. He was the victim of a fatal shotgun blast to the back. The assailant was Cave Johnson Couts, a local landowner and prominent San Diegan born in Tennessee. As the story goes, Mendoza worked as majordomo, or chief steward, on one of Cave Couts’ ranches. Couts claimed that Mendoza had threatened his life and in a hasty act of revenge killed Mendoza in broad daylight. The action violated the legendary “Code of the West” which prohibited “shooting an unarmed man” and “shooting a man in the back”. Couts was tried by jury for his crime and found not guilty. This was received “with much applause” from local citizens since threatening the life of a man, as Mendoza allegedly did, gave Couts the right to stand his ground and kill him.
Edward Lynch Greene was a gold miner who became member of the state legislature.
Honorable Edward Lynch Greene died November 28, 1872, age 38 years. He was a native of Ireland who came to California in 1852 and was a miner for gold. He was naturalized in 1861. He became a member of the state legislature when he was elected to the Assembly from Calaveras County in 1869. He was staying in San Diego at the Era House when he died of consumption. He’d been ill for the past eighteen months. He left behind a young wife, Ann Greene.
Antonio Garra Sr. was a Native American who rebelled against taxation.
Antonio Garra Sr. died January 10, 1852. He was a leader among his people, the Cupeno-Kavalim Clan. He was educated at Mission San Luis Rey and spoke as many as five Indian dialects, as well as Latin. He was one of the foremost chiefs with great power and influence among his people. The Cupeno were considered mission Indians and were subject to pay taxes in San Diego County. Garra, upset by the taxation of his people, helped to organize a resistance movement, comprised of attacks on Santa Barbara, Los Angeles and San Diego. Against his wishes, a fatal attack was made on Warner’s Ranch. He was soon thereafter captured. On January 10, 1852 Garra was found guilty of murder and theft, but not treason, as he had never taken an oath of allegiance to the United States. Before being executed by firing squad, Garra said in his last words: “Gentlemen, I ask your pardon for all my offenses, and expect yours in return.” Antonio Garra, Sr. is believed to be buried underneath what is now San Diego Avenue.
Magdalena was a Native American young lady.
Magdalena was an Indian maiden who died on March 7, 1867 at age 21.
Maria de los Angeles was a Native American infant.
Maria de los Angeles was an Indian infant who died September 19, 1867.
Yankee Jim was hung for stealing the only rowboat in San Diego Bay.
James W. Robinson was known as Yankee Jim. He suffered an extreme penalty for stealing the only rowboat in San Diego Bay. He was sentenced to be hanged. He couldn’t believe that he would be hanged until the very last moment. He appeared to think it was all a grim joke, or at worst, a serious effort to impress him with the enormity of his evil ways. He was still talking when the deputy sheriff gave the signal. Yankee Jim converted to the Roman Catholic Church prior to his death, and so was given the baptismal name of Santiago (Spanish for James). His godfather was Philip Crosthwaite, the deputy sheriff who gave the signal for his execution.
Rosa Serrano de Cassidy and her husband owned a rancho in Pauma.
Rosa Serrano de Cassidy died February 10, 1869, age 21 years. She was the first wife of Andrew Cassidy (a native of County Cavan, Ireland) who helped establish and operate the U.S. tidal gauge in La Playa (in present day Point Loma). Rosa was the daughter of Jose Antonio Serrano who served under Pio Pico in the Mexican War and was in the battle of San Pasqual. Rosa and her husband owned a rancho in Pauma. Her headstone is one of the few remaining originals in the cemetery. After cracking during an earlier restoration, it was placed flat on the ground in order to preserve it.
Don Miguel was a native of Spain, and one of the founding fathers of California.
Don Miguel Telesforo de Pedrorena died March 21, 1850. Don Miguel was a native of Spain, belonging to one of the best families of Madrid. After receiving an education in his own country, he was sent to London, where he was educated in English. In 1845 he settled in San Diego. He married Maria Antonia Estudillo, daughter of Jose Antonio Estudillo, and the two had four children. They built their casa behind the Estudillo home. It was one of the first framed houses in Old Town, and still stands beside the San Diego Union print shop. Don Miguel became a leading merchant and citizen of old San Diego. He served as a delegate to the State’s Constituional Convention at Monterey in 1849 and became one of the founding fathers of California.
Juan Maria Marron was a ship’s captain who became prominent politically.
Juan Maria Marron, born 1808, died at the age of 45. He was a ship’s captain before coming to San Diego in the early 1820’s. He was the owner of 13,311 acres called Rancho Agua Hedionda, which extends from modern day Vista to Carlsbad. He became prominent politically when he married Dona Felipa Osuna in 1834. She was the daughter of Juan Maria Osuna, who was the first alcalde of San Diego and the owner of Rancho San Dieguito. During the Mexican-American War, Marron supported the Americans against many of his Mexican friends. He was captured by Californios who threatened to execute him, but he was released, and his rancho was stripped of horses and cattle.
Jayme Lyons was the son of a carpenter, merchant, blacksmith and sheriff.
Buried November 28, 1859, age 4 years, Jayme was one of probably thirteen children of George and Bernarda Lyons. Jayme’s father was a native of Donegal, Ireland, who came to San Diego in 1847. He had been a carpenter on a ship that came around Cape Horn from New Bedford, Massachusetts. He kept a store in Old Town, owned a blacksmith shop, and was sheriff for two terms. Jayme’s mother was Bernarda de Villar, the daughter of Lieutenant de Villar, who at one time was the Commandant of the San Diego Presidio.
Bill Marshall and Juan Verdugo were hanged nearby.
Bill Marshall and Juan Verdugo were hanged on December 13, 1851. Bill Marshall was an American married to the daughter of a local Indian chieftain. He was a renegade sailor from Providence, Rhode Island, who’d deserted from a whaling ship at San Diego in 1844. After taking up habitation with the Indians, he took an active part in the Garra Indian uprisings in 1851. He and the Indian Juan Verdugo were caught and brought back to San Diego to be promptly tried by court martial. Both were found guilty. The Indian acknowledged his guilt, but Marshall insisted he was innocent. At two o’clock in the afternoon, a scaffold was erected near the old Catholic cemetery, the men placed in a wagon, the ropes adjusted about their necks, and the wagon moved on, leaving them to strangle to death.
Rafael Mamudes worked at chopping wood and digging wells. He dug the graves for the people of Old Town
Rafael Mamudes was a Native American born in Hermosillo, Mexico. He was a baker in Monterey, a miner in Calaveras County, and made a sea voyage to Guaymas. He owned a little plot of land in San Diego where the old jail stands. Legend has it he made a murderous attack upon his wife. To do penance, the priest gave Rafael the task of ringing the church bells when the occasion demanded. Rafael worked at chopping wood and digging wells. He dug the graves for the people of Old Town. He never missed a church service.
Jesus was a Native American who died of a blow to the head while drunk.
Jesus, an Indian, passed away December 15, 1879, age 25 years. He died of a blow to the head without receiving sacraments. According to the priest Juan Pujol, he was said to be drunk, so he was buried near the gate of the cemetery.
Hundreds of varied, rich life stories were concluded here in this early San Diego cemetery.
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Many animals were blessed today in Old Town San Diego State Historic Park.
The animals were blessed today in Old Town San Diego State Historic Park.
Dozens of beloved pets received a sprinkling of holy water at the annual Benediction of the Beasts, a long-time local tradition.
Monsignor Mark Campbell, Catholic priest of Our Mother of Confidence Parish in University City, administered the blessings. The traditional church ritual, which dates back to ancient times, invokes St. Anthony of the Desert, the Patron Saint of Animals. In the very early years of San Diego, livestock were blessed for an abundant harvest.
I watched for livestock but, alas, didn’t see any.
After today’s blessings, the fun event included a mid-afternoon costume and animal trick contest, which I missed. The male human ritual of watching football could not be violated.
Front row dogs wait patiently for the religious ceremony to begin.Monsignor Mark Campbell reads from Genesis and praises faithful pets.Holy water is cast by the Catholic priest upon animals to bestow health and blessings.Animals lined up for blessings included dogs, cats and rabbits.These two guys seemed to enjoy the proceedings.Cute, furry bunny rabbits need blessings as much as any other creature.Here comes Chopper, the motorcycle-riding dog, a big time celebrity.
Chopper, the canine motorcyclist, is quite the sensation in San Diego. I must’ve seen him on local television news a dozen times. He’s even made a cameo appearance on TMZ!
Chopper rides his motorcycle up to the priest for a sprinkling of holy water.This dog was a bit spooked and didn’t know what to make of this craziness.A cat is fascinated by the shiny aspergillum waving about.One dog seems bored while the other appears suspicious!A long line of pet owners waited in Old Town during the Benediction of the Beasts.
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Several whiskered Western characters pose in a mural on Harney Street in Old Town.
There’s a fairly new street mural in Old Town that I really like. Every time I see it, my imagination travels back in time. Back to the first half of the 19th century.
San Diego for many decades was a tiny town seemingly in the middle of nowhere. Whether it belonged to Spain, or Mexico, or the United States, Old Town San Diego was a place of dusty roads and modest, sun-baked adobe houses, horses and wagons, rugged settlers and ranchers. Characters from that era seem to live again in this mural.
Artist Frank Mando painted this artwork in 2013. I couldn’t capture the entire piece in one shot. Enlivening a building at the corner of San Diego Avenue and Harney Street, the mural is divided in two by a door of the Old Town Saloon. Standing inside that door, as you’ll see, there seems to be a well-known movie star!
Freight wagon hauls a load of barrels in fun art that recalls early San Diego history.John Wayne seems to be coming through a door of the Old Town Saloon.Elegant lady and girl from long ago stroll past Ye Old Curiosity Shoppe.Old Town mural on building wall was painted in 2013 by artist Frank Mando.Kids standing along sidewalk seem to have materialized from San Diego’s past.People walk past nostalgic street mural near side entrance to Old Town Saloon.
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